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Our three-day journey to the white-capped summit of Nevado Pisco, 5,752 metres high in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Peruvian Andes, began at 3,100 metres in the trekking mecca of Huaraz.The conifer-covered slopes and glaciated peaks are close to the city, fully rebuilt after a massive earthquake and landside killed about half of its 30,000 inhabitants in 1970. They seem strangely distant, though.We climbed into a four-wheel-drive vehicle in front of the small mountaineering outfitter run by Carlos Callupe Carrera, 34, a certified mountain guide with chiselled, youthful features, an easy smile and upper body that stretched his shirts taut.After following the Callejon de Huaylas, a valley along the Santa River between the Cordillera Blanca and snowless Cordillera Negra range, we turned onto gravel roads leading up to Huascaran National Park.To our right towered Mt Huascaran, only slightly shorter than Mt Aconcagua (6,960m), in Argentina on the Chilean border, the tallest mountain outside Asia.Around noon we reached camp at Cebollapama, a trailhead 3,900 metres above sea level. Quenoal trees dotted the slopes of the Llanganuco gorge. Carlos pitched his tent, and Marcus hired as a cook and organizer put up an eight-cornered tent for himself and me. The gorge is popular with trekkers, who make a day s round-trip climb to Laguna 69, a small glacial lake at 4,600 metres. On Day 1 of our Pisco ascent it was a good destination to get acclimatised to the altitude. Carlos gave elevation-coping tips along the way. Drink before you re thirsty, he said. And eat a lot of small portions. Otherwise, for digestion, your body will direct too much blood to your stomach from your muscles. A young German day-tripper was breathing heavily beside the trail. This is the hardest thing I ve ever done! she sputtered.Trekkers who head straight to Laguna 69 without getting acclimatised to the altitude for a couple of days in Huaraz pay a price: dizziness, headache, fatigue. The body can permanently tolerate altitudes only as high as 5,500 metres or so. A person can remain higher up for a few days, but not weeks, Carlos said. The death zone, survivable for just a few hours, begins at about 7,500 metres. Atmospheric pressure there is so low that the lungs are unable to take in sufficient oxygen.Laguna 69 was a forget-me-not blue. Behind it, jagged edges of the glacier on the steep, south face of Mt Chacraraju (6,112m) dropped towards the lake. The air was cold and clear. Breathtaking by day, it s no place to be unequipped in darkness, so we went back down to camp.That evening at Cebollapampa our mules grazed by the stream. Marcus prepared a traditional Peruvian dish on the gas cooker, lomo saltado: beef with potatoes, onions, soy sauce and rice. And Carlos regaled us with tales of his wild youth.The next day was sunny and we climbed to the base camp at 4,600 metres, encountering four dejected Americans going the other way. Stricken with splitting headaches the night before their planned ascent to Pisco s summit, they had been forced to turn back. It was really bad, remarked Beth, who said their guide had been of little help. He hardly spoke with us at all. The four had been in Peru less than a week when they booked their tour in Huaraz. The guide should have known they weren t ready to climb past 5,500 metres. He asked me if he could buy my sleeping bag! Beth said.It s not easy to find a good mountaineering outfitter in Huaraz. Some have low-quality equipment and poorly qualified guides. For climbs of 5,000 metres or more, a certified guide should be hired.Good outfitters usually supply all necessary equipment as well: crampons, ice picks, ropes, carabiners and helmets along with thick gloves, climbing gaiters and hard-shell expedition boots, which protect against cold better than ordinary hiking boots.In the afternoon at base camp, Carlos rechecked the gear carried up by the mules. Meanwhile, dark clouds gathered and it started to hail. Though the summit seemed very near now, rough weather in the morning would make an ascent too dangerous.But when we peered out of the tent at 1 am, stars sparkled in the sky and the icy faces of the surrounding six-thousanders shone so clearly under the full moon that every crack in the ice was visible. There was almost enough light to set out without headlamps.We reached the glacier after a climb of about two hours. First we put on the crampons and gaiters, and then we roped up. My fingers were numb with cold. Swing your hands and feet back and forth to stimulate blood circulation, Carlos advised.He manoeuvred me through the craggy nocturnal icescape, furrowed with crevasses up to 60 metres deep. The route led through a wind gap in the ridge on the approach to the summit.Shortly before dawn the summit seemed deceptively close. Exhaustion came ever more quickly - after 10 steps, after five...And then... we were there.The flank of Mt Huandoy (6,395m) gleamed orange in the morning sun. To the north, the moon still hung in the dark blue sky while a pink stripe spread over the white mountains.There stood Mt Artesonraju, said to be the peak in the Paramount Pictures logo. And Mt Alpamayo, often called the world s most beautiful mountain because of its trapezoidal south-west face.The clouds below, punctured by the peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. resembled a sea of cotton wool as seen from an airplane. I was flying, and my feet were on glittering ground.dpa j http://coach.onlinestore.us.com/ - coach outlet online To secure the long-term future of the factory's 730 workers, Hitachi is bidding for contracts on the London Crossrail project and with rail operators across Europe. http://www.oakleysunglasses.mobi/ - oakley sunglasses for sale In December, the party's disciplinary arm announced a formal investigation into Ling over "seriously violating Party regulations," and he was soon stripped of his official titles. 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